Optimization Formula of Antipollutant Facial Wash Gel Purple Roselle Flower (Hibiscus sabdariffa L. var. roselindo 2)
Abstract
Exposure to Particulate Matter (PM) and other airborne pollutants can lead to various skin issues. The anthocyanin compounds in purple roselle flower extract exhibit antipollution activity, making the extract a promising candidate for the development of a facial wash gel formulation, optimised with carbopol 940 and triethanolamine (TEA). These two ingredients were selected due to their influence on the physical properties of the formulation, which is expected to help maintain the physicochemical stability of anthocyanins. This study aimed to determine the optimal concentrations of these components as gel base-forming agents, such as viscosity, pH, and spreadability. The optimum formula was designed using Design Expert 13 software with a Simple Lattice Design (SLD) model, while statistical analyses were conducted using one-way ANOVA and T-test to verify the predicted and actual optimum formula. The physical evaluation results confirmed that the optimum formula met the required viscosity (3826±28.67 cPs), dispersibility (6.07±0.45 cm), and exhibited an acidic pH (6.53±0.07) suitable for a facial cleansing gel. Based on the conducted tests and analyses, the optimum formula contained 2% carbopol 940 and 2% TEA, with a desirability value of 0.993. Verification testing indicated no significant differences between the predicted and actual optimum formula.
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References
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Oancea S. A Review of the Current Knowledge of Thermal Stability of Anthocyanins and Approaches to Their Stabilization to Heat. Antioxidants. 2021;10:1337. Crossref
Rinaldi R, Fauziah F, Zakaria N. Studi Formulasi Sediaan Gel Ekstrak Etanol Serai Wangi (Cymbopogon nardus (L.) Randle) dengan Basis HPMC. Jurnal Ilmiah Farmasi Simplisia (JIFS). 2021;1:33–42.
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Khoo HE, Azlan A, Tang ST, Lim SM. Anthocyanidins and Anthocyanins: Colored Pigments as Food, Pharmaceutical Ingredients, and the Potential Health Benefits. Food & Nutrition Research. 2017;61:1361779. Crossref
Tong HHY, Wong SYS, Law MWL, Chu KKW, Chow AHL. Anti-hygroscopic Effect of Dextrans in Herbal Formulations. Int J Pharm. 2008;363:99–105. Crossref
Chang YX, Yang JJ, Pan RL, Chang Q, Liao YH. Anti-hygroscopic Effect of Leucine on Spray-Dried Herbal Extract Powders. Powder Technology. 2014. Crossref
Chongwilaikasem N, Sithisarn P, Rojsanga P, Sithisarn P. Green Extraction and Partial Purification of Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) Extracts with High Amounts of Phytochemicals and in Vitro Antioxidant and Antibacterial Effects. Journal of Food Science. 2024;89:8819-8835. Crossref
Aminurita A, Samodra G, Fitriana AS. Pengaruh Ketinggian Tempat Tumbuh terhadap Kadar Flavonoid Total dan Uji Aktivitas Antioksidan Ekstrak Daun Mahoni (Swietenia maghoni L.). Pharmacy Genius. 2024;3:108–115. Crossref
Katuuk RHH, Wanget SA, Tumewu P. Pengaruh Perbedaan Ketinggian Tempat terhadap Kandungan Metabolit Sekunder pada Gulma Babadotan (Ageratum conyzoides L.). COCOS. 2018;10. Crossref
Utomo DS, Kristiani EBE, Mahardika A. Pengaruh Lokasi Tumbuh terhadap Kadar Flavonoid, Fenolik, Klorofil, Karotenoid dan Aktivitas Antioksidan pada Tumbuhan Pecut Kuda (Stachytarpheta jamaicensis). Bioma : Berkala Ilmiah Biologi. 2021;22:143–149. Crossref
Indriani DM. Pengaruh Lokasi Tumbuh terhadap Profil Metabolit dan Aktivitas Antioksidan Fraksi Daun Gaharu Gyrinops versteegii (Gilg.) Domke. Universitas Gadjah Mada, Yogyakarta; 2021.
BPOM. Parameter Standar Umum Ektrak Tumbuhan Obat. Jakarta: Direktorat Jenderal Pengawasan Obat dan Makanan, Departemen Kesehatan; 2000.
Turon F, Caro Y, Villeneuve P, Pina M, Graille J. Effect of Water Content and Temperature on Carica papaya Lipase Catalyzed Esterification and Transesterification Reactions. OCL. 2003;10:400–404. Crossref
Komala AM, Haryoto H. Tests of Ash Content, Moisture Content and Dry Shrinkage of Ethanol Extracts of Capidada Leaves (Sonneratia alba) and Ketapang (Terminilia cattapa). Journal of Nutraceuticals and Herbal Medicine. 2021;3:10–14. Crossref
Tandi EA, Purwanti R, Kemila M. Kadar Air Ekstrak Herba Sambiloto (Andrographis paniculata) pada Variasi Suhu Pengeringan. Jurnal Permata Indonesia. 2021;12. Crossref
Utami YP, Sisang S, Burhan A. Pengukuran Parameter Simplisia dan Ekstrak Etanol Daun Patikala (Etlingera elatior (Jack) R.M. Sm) Asal Kabupaten Enrekang Sulawesi Selatan. Majalah Farmasi dan Farmakologi. 2020;24:5–10. Crossref
Safitri FI, Nawangsari D, Febrina D. Overview: Application of Carbopol 940. In: Proceedings of the International Conference on Health and Medical Sciences (AHMS 2020). 2021;34:80–84. Crossref
Rowe RC, Sheskey P, Quinn M. Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients. Libros Digitales-Pharmaceutical Press; 2009.
Aeni LN, Sulaiman TNS, Mulyani S. Formulasi Gel Mukoadhesif Kombinasi Minyak Cengkeh dan Getah Jarak Pagar serta Uji Aktivitas Antibakteri terhadap Streptococcus mutant. Majalah Farmaseutik. 2017;8:108–112. Crossref
Rahman AG, Astuti IY, Dhiani BA. Formulasi Lotion Ekstrak Rimpang Bangle (Zingiber purpureum Roxb) dengan Variasi Konsentrasi Trietanolamin sebagai Emulgator dan Uji Iritasinya. PHARMACY: Jurnal Farmasi Indonesia (Pharmaceutical Journal of Indonesia). 2013;10. Crossref
Kopjar M, Piližota V, Šubarić D, Babić J. Prevention of Thermal Degradation of Red Currant Juice Anthocyanins By Phenolic Compounds Addition. Croatian Journal of Food Science and Technology. 2009;1:24–30.
Marpaung AM, Andarwulan N, Hariyadi P, Nur Faridah D. The Colour Degradation of Anthocyanin-Rich Extract from Butterfly Pea (Clitoria ternatea L.) Petal in Various Solvents at pH 7. Nat Prod Res. 2017;31:2273–2280. Crossref
Houghton A, Appelhagen I, Martin C. Natural Blues: Structure Meets Function in Anthocyanins. Plants. 2021;10: 726. Crossref
Angriani L. Potensi Ekstrak Bunga Telang (Clitoria ternatea) sebagai Pewarna Alami Lokal pada Berbagai Industri Pangan: (The Potential of Extract Butterfly Pea Flower (Clitoria ternatea L.) as a Local Natural Dye for Various Food Industry). Canrea Journal. 2019;32–37. Crossref
Wulandari A, Sunarti TC, Fahma F, Enomae T. The Potential of Bioactives as Biosensors for Detection of pH. In: IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science. 2020;460:1:012034. Crossref
Ramadhani RA, Riyadi DHS, Triwibowo B, Kusumaningtyas RD. Review Pemanfaatan Design Expert untuk Optimasi Komposisi Campuran Minyak Nabati sebagai Bahan Baku Sintesis Biodiesel. J Tek Kim Ling. 2017;1:11–16. Crossref
Kim KE, Cho D, Park HJ. Air pollution and skin diseases: Adverse Effects of Airborne Particulate Matter on Various Skin Diseases. Life Sci. 2016;152:126–134. Crossref
Koohgoli R, Hudson L, Naidoo K, Wilkinson S, Chavan B, Birch-Machin MA. Bad Air Gets Under Your Skin. Exp Dermatol. 2017;26:384–387. Crossref
Mistry N. Guidelines for Formulating Anti-Pollution Products. Cosmetics. 2017;4:57. Crossref
Nining N, Seowandhi SN, Wikarsa S. Pengeringan Ekstrak Kelopak Bunga Rosela (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) melalui Mikroenkapsulasi dengan Maltodekstrin Metode Semprot Kering. Farmasains: Jurnal Ilmiah Ilmu Kefarmasian. 2017;4:65–71. Crossref
Nuryanti S, Matsjeh S, Anwar C, Raharjo TJ. Isolation Anthocyanin from Roselle Petals ( Hibiscus sabdariffa L) and the Effect of Light on the Stability. Indonesian Journal of Chemistry. 2012;12:167–171. Crossref
Catroux P, Cotovio J, Pruche F. The Use of Anthocyanins in Cosmetic Compositions to Protect Against Pollution, Especially Toxic Gases and Ozone. FR2809003A1, 2001.
Oancea S. A Review of the Current Knowledge of Thermal Stability of Anthocyanins and Approaches to Their Stabilization to Heat. Antioxidants. 2021;10:1337. Crossref
Rinaldi R, Fauziah F, Zakaria N. Studi Formulasi Sediaan Gel Ekstrak Etanol Serai Wangi (Cymbopogon nardus (L.) Randle) dengan Basis HPMC. Jurnal Ilmiah Farmasi Simplisia (JIFS). 2021;1:33–42.
Rahayu T, Fudholi A, Fitria A. Optimasi Formulasi Gel Ekstrak Daun Tembakau (Nicotiana tabacum) dengan Variasi Kadar Karbopol940 dan TEA menggunakan Metode Simplex Lattice Design (SLD). JIF. 2016;12:16–24.
Tsabitah AF, Zulkarnain AK, Wahyuningsih MSH, Nugrahaningsih DAA. Optimasi Carbomer, Propilen Glikol, dan Trietanolamin dalam Formulasi Sediaan Gel Ekstrak Etanol Daun Kembang Bulan (Tithonia diversifolia). Majalah Farmaseutik. 2020;16:111–118. Crossref
Handayani M, Mita N, Ibrahim A. Formulasi dan Optimasi Basis Emulgel Carbopol 940 dan Trietanolamin dengan Berbagai Variasi Konsentrasi. Proceeding of Mulawarman Pharmaceuticals Conferences. 2015;1:53–60. Crossref
Kementerian Kesehatan Republik Indonesia. Farmakope Herbal Indonesia Edisi II. II. Jakarta: Kementerian Kesehatan Republik Indonesia; 2017.
Tranggono, Iswari R, Latifah, Fatmah. Buku Pegangan Ilmu Pengetahuan Kosemetik. Jakarta: PT. Gramedia Pustaka Utama; 2007.
Garg A, Aggarwal D, Garg S, Singla AK. Spreading of Semisolid Formulations: an Update. Pharmaceutical Technology North America. 2002;26:84–105.
Niazi SK. Handbook of Pharmaceutical Manufacturing Formulations. 3rd ed. Vol. 1, Compressed Solid Products. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2019. Crossref
Hartanti D, Charisma SL, Fitri HA, Fitriani F, Putri DA, Rinawati J, et al. Karakter Mutu Simplisia dan Ekstrak Tumbuhan Antidiabetes Lokal dari Banyumas. JRST (Jurnal Riset Sains dan Teknologi). 2022;6:227–236. Crossref
Rosidah I, Zainuddin Z, Agustini K, Bunga O, Pudjiastuti L. Standardisasi Ekstrak Etanol 70% Buah Labu Siam (Sechium edule (Jacq.) Sw.). Farmasains: Jurnal Ilmiah Ilmu Kefarmasian. 2020;7:13–20. Crossref
Khoo HE, Azlan A, Tang ST, Lim SM. Anthocyanidins and Anthocyanins: Colored Pigments as Food, Pharmaceutical Ingredients, and the Potential Health Benefits. Food & Nutrition Research. 2017;61:1361779. Crossref
Tong HHY, Wong SYS, Law MWL, Chu KKW, Chow AHL. Anti-hygroscopic Effect of Dextrans in Herbal Formulations. Int J Pharm. 2008;363:99–105. Crossref
Chang YX, Yang JJ, Pan RL, Chang Q, Liao YH. Anti-hygroscopic Effect of Leucine on Spray-Dried Herbal Extract Powders. Powder Technology. 2014. Crossref
Chongwilaikasem N, Sithisarn P, Rojsanga P, Sithisarn P. Green Extraction and Partial Purification of Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) Extracts with High Amounts of Phytochemicals and in Vitro Antioxidant and Antibacterial Effects. Journal of Food Science. 2024;89:8819-8835. Crossref
Aminurita A, Samodra G, Fitriana AS. Pengaruh Ketinggian Tempat Tumbuh terhadap Kadar Flavonoid Total dan Uji Aktivitas Antioksidan Ekstrak Daun Mahoni (Swietenia maghoni L.). Pharmacy Genius. 2024;3:108–115. Crossref
Katuuk RHH, Wanget SA, Tumewu P. Pengaruh Perbedaan Ketinggian Tempat terhadap Kandungan Metabolit Sekunder pada Gulma Babadotan (Ageratum conyzoides L.). COCOS. 2018;10. Crossref
Utomo DS, Kristiani EBE, Mahardika A. Pengaruh Lokasi Tumbuh terhadap Kadar Flavonoid, Fenolik, Klorofil, Karotenoid dan Aktivitas Antioksidan pada Tumbuhan Pecut Kuda (Stachytarpheta jamaicensis). Bioma : Berkala Ilmiah Biologi. 2021;22:143–149. Crossref
Indriani DM. Pengaruh Lokasi Tumbuh terhadap Profil Metabolit dan Aktivitas Antioksidan Fraksi Daun Gaharu Gyrinops versteegii (Gilg.) Domke. Universitas Gadjah Mada, Yogyakarta; 2021.
BPOM. Parameter Standar Umum Ektrak Tumbuhan Obat. Jakarta: Direktorat Jenderal Pengawasan Obat dan Makanan, Departemen Kesehatan; 2000.
Turon F, Caro Y, Villeneuve P, Pina M, Graille J. Effect of Water Content and Temperature on Carica papaya Lipase Catalyzed Esterification and Transesterification Reactions. OCL. 2003;10:400–404. Crossref
Komala AM, Haryoto H. Tests of Ash Content, Moisture Content and Dry Shrinkage of Ethanol Extracts of Capidada Leaves (Sonneratia alba) and Ketapang (Terminilia cattapa). Journal of Nutraceuticals and Herbal Medicine. 2021;3:10–14. Crossref
Tandi EA, Purwanti R, Kemila M. Kadar Air Ekstrak Herba Sambiloto (Andrographis paniculata) pada Variasi Suhu Pengeringan. Jurnal Permata Indonesia. 2021;12. Crossref
Utami YP, Sisang S, Burhan A. Pengukuran Parameter Simplisia dan Ekstrak Etanol Daun Patikala (Etlingera elatior (Jack) R.M. Sm) Asal Kabupaten Enrekang Sulawesi Selatan. Majalah Farmasi dan Farmakologi. 2020;24:5–10. Crossref
Safitri FI, Nawangsari D, Febrina D. Overview: Application of Carbopol 940. In: Proceedings of the International Conference on Health and Medical Sciences (AHMS 2020). 2021;34:80–84. Crossref
Rowe RC, Sheskey P, Quinn M. Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients. Libros Digitales-Pharmaceutical Press; 2009.
Aeni LN, Sulaiman TNS, Mulyani S. Formulasi Gel Mukoadhesif Kombinasi Minyak Cengkeh dan Getah Jarak Pagar serta Uji Aktivitas Antibakteri terhadap Streptococcus mutant. Majalah Farmaseutik. 2017;8:108–112. Crossref
Rahman AG, Astuti IY, Dhiani BA. Formulasi Lotion Ekstrak Rimpang Bangle (Zingiber purpureum Roxb) dengan Variasi Konsentrasi Trietanolamin sebagai Emulgator dan Uji Iritasinya. PHARMACY: Jurnal Farmasi Indonesia (Pharmaceutical Journal of Indonesia). 2013;10. Crossref
Kopjar M, Piližota V, Šubarić D, Babić J. Prevention of Thermal Degradation of Red Currant Juice Anthocyanins By Phenolic Compounds Addition. Croatian Journal of Food Science and Technology. 2009;1:24–30.
Marpaung AM, Andarwulan N, Hariyadi P, Nur Faridah D. The Colour Degradation of Anthocyanin-Rich Extract from Butterfly Pea (Clitoria ternatea L.) Petal in Various Solvents at pH 7. Nat Prod Res. 2017;31:2273–2280. Crossref
Houghton A, Appelhagen I, Martin C. Natural Blues: Structure Meets Function in Anthocyanins. Plants. 2021;10: 726. Crossref
Angriani L. Potensi Ekstrak Bunga Telang (Clitoria ternatea) sebagai Pewarna Alami Lokal pada Berbagai Industri Pangan: (The Potential of Extract Butterfly Pea Flower (Clitoria ternatea L.) as a Local Natural Dye for Various Food Industry). Canrea Journal. 2019;32–37. Crossref
Wulandari A, Sunarti TC, Fahma F, Enomae T. The Potential of Bioactives as Biosensors for Detection of pH. In: IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science. 2020;460:1:012034. Crossref
Ramadhani RA, Riyadi DHS, Triwibowo B, Kusumaningtyas RD. Review Pemanfaatan Design Expert untuk Optimasi Komposisi Campuran Minyak Nabati sebagai Bahan Baku Sintesis Biodiesel. J Tek Kim Ling. 2017;1:11–16. Crossref
Authors
Anisa Fitri, H., Falahdin, F. I. and Astuti, I. Y. (2025) “Optimization Formula of Antipollutant Facial Wash Gel Purple Roselle Flower (Hibiscus sabdariffa L. var. roselindo 2)”, Farmasains : Jurnal Ilmiah Ilmu Kefarmasian, 12(1), pp. 1–12. doi: 10.22236/farmasains.v12i1.17127.
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